India: I'm on the beach! And a boat!
MAR 13
I’m so happy to have purchased the Lonely Planet and to be following their recommendations for accommodations. This place (Palmy Residency) is very clean. The staff are friendly and it’s very well situated in relation to the main area of town.
I spent today exploring the canals around town – there are a few main canals, most parts are filled with garbage and some parts full of some sort of vegetation. Many boatmen lined the main areas of the canals and wanted me to take a trip with them, but I’ve already booked a covered canoe ride for tomorrow.
Walking along the main streets, it’s clear that the entrepreneurial spirit here is not unlike that in other Indians town/cities. It seems that each place focuses prion only one good. In the little village outside of Auroville, store after store was selling (the same stock of) hand made shoes. In Pondicherry they were all selling (the same stock of) pants and skirts. In Mahabalipuram, stone carvings (that I can understand as their cultural history and natural environment dictates that). Here in Alleppey, it’s store after store selling jewelery. Mostly fancy wedding jewelery, but there were all kinds in all price ranges.
I wonder how Indian store owners survive when they have little that makes them unique, little that differentiates them from the rest.
After discovering a nice cafe catering to western coffee addicts like me, I ate this most amazing vegetable thali for lunch. The egg, coconut, potato curry was incredible, so much so that I had seconds!
I walked to the beach. I was told it was “too far” to walk. That’s because there’s always someone wanting to give me a ride in their rickshaw. But 5 kms along the canal – no big deal. Well, aside from the groups of men hanging around.
Allepey, India from jennifer hicks on Vimeo.
For the record, leering is a disgusting behaviour, dudes. Especially since I was wearing a red marriage bindi (a dot over my 3rd eye) and a kumkumam (red powder above the bindi at the hairline; both indicating I am married. They seemed more amused by that than respectful of it.
MAR 14
I started my day sitting in a covered canoe watching the sun rise as Raju my boat man paddled me into the backwaters. Although I was disappointed by the amount of garbage floating through the water, it was quite a special experience.
We stopped for a South Indian breakfast of dosa and curry with “milk coffee” (coffee with milk) where they seemed to have a pet eagle. Here’s Raju holding it.
It was really interesting to see the way of life along the backwaters. Of course, the water is central to living and served as the place to do ones morning hygiene routine (horking followed by toothbrushing, yum), the place to bathe (in plain view of your neighbours and tourists on boats), the place to wash dishes, the place to fish (no rod necessary) and the place to clean clothes. All along our ride we heard the slap-slap-slapping of the clothes being beaten on the rocks as part of the cleaning process.
There were small paths made from sandbags on either side of the canals linking neighbours, temples, schools, rice fields and provisions to one another. It was funny to see a motorbike driving along one, just feet from the water.
Another stop had us walking through a rice field, talking to a farmer and exploring a small village. As we paddled back we came across a wedding procession happening at the local hall. The women were entering from one direction and the men from the other.
I was impressed by Raju’s patience, strength and stamina. That canoe was just inching along, and at one point I felt like a baby being rocked in a cradle, lulled by the gentle motion.