Panama – Christmas 2013

Panama 2013 from jennifer hicks on Vimeo.

December 23, 2013 Toronto – Panama City

We left our house without heat at 6am to set out for the airport. DarkTO (a massive ice storm on Dec 21) left us without power, and decimated our neighbour’s tree behind us as well as taking a huge limb from our Russian Olive tree in front.

By the time we left 24 hours after lights out, the temperature was 10 degrees C inside and -10 degrees C outside. Brrr. That meant packing in the dark (not easy given my state of disorganization of winter and summer clothing) and no shower. Stink-ay.

Fortunately the flight wasn’t delayed, neither in Toronto nor in Houston where we connected.

We arrived in Panama around 7:30 and got to the hotel by 9pm, by which time a massive party was in swing at the casino across the road. All I wanted to do was eat and sleep, no time for party vibes permeating the paper thin walls (Hilton Garden Inn – good price, but be prepared to hear everything).

I had the most freaking incredible veggie pizza at a nearby restaurant, where we also drank artisanal beer. Full belly and beer was deep sleep inducing – exactly what I needed.

December 24, 2013 Panama City

Today we woke up to a wonderful buffet breakfast (tropical fruit galore!!!) and then set out to walk to the water.

The weather was DEEEEE-VINE! ——

We walked along a recreation path called Avenida Balboa and ended up at a wonderful market. The fresh fish were my favourite thing to look at.

After such a long walk we took a rest in a small park. And I climbed this remnant of a banyan tree (still got it, baby!).

Later, we caught a tour bus which showed us the many beautiful sites of Panama City (I did find it strange that 3 shopping malls were included on the itinerary but… )

The end of the day consisted of booking our trip to Contadora Island (in the Pearl Islands) the next day.

December 25, 2013 Panama City – Contadora Island

Today started with a 2 hour ferry ride to the “Pearl Islands”, specifically the island of Contadors which Suchitra had recommended.

Paradise.

Turquoise clear, warm waters with schools of fish within a foot away, blue sky with full wispy clouds, white sand beaches and a laid back sense.

We rented a golf cart (from the Welcome Centre) to tour the small island and found ourselves on a beach that once hosted guests of what is now a deserted resort. An enormous ship was washed up on the beach which gave us our daily dose of adventure. We climbed aboard (I’m still proud of myself for managing that) and explored. Perfect recipe for feeling like a kid – I only wish Andrew was here as we surely would have concocted the perfect ridiculously wild story about the ship and it’s demise.

While riding around the island we saw 2 neque, which the man at the hotel described as “rats” when I asked the name, but I still thought they were cute (and, unusual).

December 26, 2013 Contadora

Today we rented a kayak (from the Welcome Centre) and paddled over to Bartholomew island. It took us maybe an hour to get there even though it didn’t look all that far. I collected all these beautiful red stones – unique!

After a nap we explored the gorgeous rock formations around the beach. We found a small cave filled with hundreds of cocoons and “guard butterflies” fluttering around to protect the progeny.

I discovered I really like sea bass (called Corvina here), and will be looking for it at home.

December 27, 2013 Contadora – Panama City

What a gorgeous day!

We went snorkelling with Coral Dreams around the Pearl Islands.

I SAW A SEA TURTLE!!! It reminded me of snorkelling at the Great Barrier Reef in 2000(?) when a giant sea turtle was within 5 feet and we swam together for a brief while. This turtle was probably half that size and was probably 15 feet away. Yet it was thrilling all the same!

While I was in the water, I felt so connected to the underwater world. And free. Man oh man did I feel free. Like I was fully safe and in control and relaxed.

My curiosity was fed a spectacular buffet of blue and yellow fish, purple and orange fish, iridescent fish, tiny and big fish, warm caresses of the water on my skin, sun beams trickling through the water and dappling my arms and hands as I propelled myself through the water.

After snorkelling we got back on the ferry to travel back to Panama City. The 2 best parts of the ferry rides (to and from Contadora) were that a) I didn’t get sick and b) they played these non-stop 80s and 90s videos which had me singing along the entire ride (perhaps distracting me and preventing puke-age).

At dinner back in Panama City, I had a mouthgasm over the octopus ceviche, and wondered why I waited so long to try it. Mmmm-mmmm.

December 28, 2013 Panama City

Today was another beautiful day outdoors. We went to Metropolitan National Park. We hiked up a pretty steep trail to get to the main attraction – a panoramic view of the city. Being in nature is always mesmerizing for me, but hiking like this makes me feel super strong. The sense of accomplishment after having endured the heat and physical challenge is invigorating and really makes me feel alive.

I was hoping to see a 3 toed sloth on our hike, but no luck. However we did see a pond full of turtles and a crocodile sitting amongst them on the shore. And later on we saw fuzzy mass of caterpillars hanging out together on the side of the road. Wild.

This evening we went to another ceverceria I had read about called La Rana Dorada. The beer was decent. It’s important to me to support these small enterprises who are really going for something not culturally common. The folks who are taking risks and following their instincts are always the ones I am attracted to.

December 29, 2013 Panama City to Boquete

We got up early and took a flight (from Albrook Airport) to David (in the province of Chiquiri) and then got a cab to Boquete.

The mountains

Well, ok, not exactly mountains, but beautifully lush green hills.

Luckily we were able to get on an afternoon tour (through the Mamallena Boquete hostel) that took us to a mini canyon and a set of bot springs.

At the canyon, Paul and I both took charge of our fear of heights; Paul jumped 15 feet and I jumped 12 feet into the water from the cliff’s edge. It may not sound like a big deal, but for us it was. For me, I had to override my worry that I would slip and hit my head on the rocks on the way in.

I took 2 jumps (each took ~10 mins of self-reassurance before plunging), and that was just enough. I had done my “one hard thing” for the day (twice!) and felt stronger for it.

The hot springs were ideal – like a hot bath. Super relaxing and not sulphur smelling like those in New Zealand.

December 30, 2013 Boquete

Today we rented mopeds and zoomed all around the hillsides.  What a sense of power, freedom, ease and independence. Feeling the warm breeze rush past me as my adrenaline soared was a thing of real beauty.

Afterwards we went on a tour of a coffee plantation. Interesting, but after chewing several raw coffee beans, I decided I like the final product much better.

December 31, 2013  Boquete – David – Panama – Toronto

We had a to kill a LOT of time between our morning flight from David to Panama and our evening flight back to Toronto. So we spent it mostly in a mall. Horrible. But certainly a lesson in Panamanian culture and pursuit of cheap blinged-up party wear for New Year’s Eve!